As prices soar, Ayesha Christie’s got a handy 10-point cultural history of olive oil. Things are tough here: the first blackberries were dessicated horrors, deciduous trees are losing their leaves like it’s November, and Boo Peep has had all her sheep carted off to the knacker’s since there’s nothing left for them to eat. One thing the Spanish government forgot when it legalised lots of agricultural workers was that, as well as paying social security contributions when times were good, they would have to be included in the jobless figures when the rain gods decide not to water the crops. Time to call in the jacareros?

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